The best of London Fashion Week Spring 2013

Unlike with New York Fashion Week, where I liked a few pieces in each designer's collection, but from a lot of designers, regarding London Fashion Week, I found myself liking a lot of pieces in a few collections. This is very unlike me.
I, for one, like novelty and options. For instance, I get panicky when people ask me who my favorite band or singer is because I don't know how to tangibly measure that. When I listen to a CD from a band, I usually like a few songs, but I'll only love one or two (Michael Jackson's Thriller album is the sole exception to this rule).
So, London's fashion week had me swooning over pieces by Giles, Temperley London, Antonio Berardi, and Erdem, with a few pieces by other designers rounding everything out.

Giles' offerings boomeranged from the hard-edged white and black minidresses to the airy, pastel-hued gowns that floated down the runway. I admired the ability of the house to encapsulate the multifaceted sides of womens personalities - and their closets. Sure, I would love to attend a gala in a glittering chiffon gown, but I'm equally determined to find a dress that will suit my regular daily needs while in the city, too.  Not to mention that addition of a fuchsia lip that can transition from day to evening.

 Via Style

 Via Style

Via Style

Temperley London was all about the dresses and the skirt. Dresses, skirts, frocks, and gowns. All there, and all resplendent. Whether it be a vibrant red column dress, an a-line summery white halter dress, or a semi-sheer periwinkle dream in tulle...it's all gorgeous.

Via Style

Via Style

Via Style

Antonio Berardi has mastered the glittering-but-not-in-a-princess-or-fairy-way of adding cool girl chic to any of his outfits that are dazzling, but not fruity. He combines minimalism with decadence and succeeds each time.

Via The Cut

Via The Cut

Via The Cut

Via The Cut

Erdem hosted hodge-podge of snakeskin, florals, brights and pastels all wrapped into the most ladylike dresses of the season. That's the secret, isn't it? If you want to get a bit wild and wear animal print, you can do so almost anywhere, provided that the outfit bearing those details is demure and ultra-feminine. Noted. 

Via Style

Via Style

Via Style

And others, such as:

Burberry  and David Koma

Best of Menswear - Spring 2013

(images c/o style.com)

I find that I like watching the progression of menswear shows because they provide me with a different perspective as to which outfits I like and why. With the womens shows, for instance, I look at each piece coming down the runway from a few viewpoints, such as:


A) Is the overall look flattering to the wearer (or rather, would it be flattering to a non-model)?


B) Is there something innately attractive about it and/or is there a particularly well-executed aspect to the outfit, be it print, color, cut, fabric, or all of the above?


 C) Is there a sense of newness to the look that lends a certain novelty to it? Is said newness so interesting that it could potentially spawn a new trend?


D) Do I like the outfit because it looks like a day-to-day outfit I would and could readily wear, an outfit that I would want my alter ego to wear, an outfit that is so luxurious, custom-made and untouchable that it would live only in my daydreams or is it unwearable, but should still be admired and commended like a beautiful piece of art?

There are always quite a few outfits I like for the artistic value they lend rather than for their attractive appeal. This can be good and bad. The bad comes into play when I like an outfit for its well-executed details, but then I forget about the big picture, namely that it may not be appealing to the opposite sex. I get so excited about little details like, for instance, a well-placed bow or pleated leather on an outfit that I forget that said bow is mounted atop a shoulder pad or that the pleated leather is also harboring sharp studs; neither look coinciding with traditional ideas of what men generally find to be attractive attire. For instance, I remember showing this Balmain Resort 2013 number to a guy friend, gushing over how much I liked the outfit, only to be met with resistance on his part. Our conversation went something like this:
Him (looking at the picture): "Wait, so, why do you like what she's [the model] wearing?"
Me: "The pants are perfectly tailored and they hit the ankle at the right point so that the heel isn't overlapped by fabric. The well-defined shoulders of the jacket offset the --"
Him: "Stop. I don't care about where the heels and the jacket meet, or whatever. Those are jester pants and they don't look good. Find a dress. Without that pattern. Seriously, it's weird."

But with the menswear shows, I browse the offerings both as a lover of fashion that takes into account the four types of criteria from above, and also from a woman's viewpoint, deciding whether or not an outfit, though it has interesting details or is artistically sound, would look appealing on a man.

 For instance, though I am in awe of how great this Alexander McQueen outfit looks on this particular model who is languidly standing in a whitewashed studio, if I were to see a guy-next-door wearing this, concerns about his character would most assuredly come up. Suffice to say, the ratio of chest hair exposed versus shirt plus the juxtaposition of interesting prints and then the addition of a pocket square would probably make me slink the other way. Unless this man was lounging casually on a yacht docked somewhere in Lido, then no, we'd not be friends.

But then take a peek at the Canali look underneath. The suit is elegant, yet relaxed, as is the jacket. This look conveys the message of, "I know how to dress and I take pride in my appearance, but clothes don't rule my life." The light jacket and the semi-relaxed fit of the suit, combined with the neutral color palette and malleable fabrics makes this look something I am in complete favor of. I feel as though I could hug this guy without worrying that I'd put a detrimental crease in anything that he's wearing.

That being said, here is a rundown of some looks that I favored from the Spring 2013 menswear shows.

Walter Van Beirendonck - This look would probably fall into the B and D categories from above. I like the crisp cut of the jacket, especially with the brass buttons (surprising) and it looks great when paired with the collarless piqué shirt. The sheer flamboyance of the look earns it a D, and that tophat is so Mad Hatter that I have no choice but to love it.

Neil Barrett - I think I like the idea of this look more than the actual outfit itself. By all means, put a casual douse on that formal jacket, but perhaps the satin lapels are pushing it over the top. But the colors are perfect and I like the "business on the top, party on the bottom" idea.

Hermès - Just as the above look from Neil Barrett suggested a split-down-the-middle ratio of casual to formal wear, then this look by French fashion house Hermès is the less dramatic, more luxurious cousin to it. And if the baseball shirt mentioned in the Style.com review by Tim Blanks is what we're seeing here, then it is made from chiffon crocodile.

Canali - This collection was pure gold. Several "themes" were enmeshed in designer Giorgio Canali's show, enabling people with varying tastes to cherry pick their way through the collection (or perhaps give every piece a thumbs-up). Looks ranged from relaxed, white suits that mimicked styles of Gatsby-esque landed gentry to the dramatic flair of a metallic suit to the bright and formal jackets that Brad Goreski tends to favor. Though there are eccentric additions to the outfits, they overall remain down-to-earth and approachable.

Ermenegildo Zegna - Dapper.

Diesel Black Gold - Somehow this works. Even with the vest. Especially with the bag.

Berluti - Italian-helmed, Paris-based brand Berluti is known for its fine leather mens shoes and bags. According to Tim Blanks' review, the brand used to offer its 'Alessandro' shoe in more than 100 colors, such was its commitment to ensuring that every customer got a pair suited distinctly for him.The brand has seemingly crept into designing clothing as well, and thank goodness for that, as each look in this collection lends a custom elegance that doesn't take attention away from the wearer, instead serving only to enhance him.

Brioni - Brioni's collection gains power from its simplicity. No frills or head-scratching accessories, simply well-hewn pieces cut from (what looks to be) crisp linen. Also, all of the great shoes. Lace-ups to loafers...all great.

Belstaff - This English brand is best known for the waterproof outerwear it created specifically for travelers, most notably its creation of waxed cotton used to repel the elements. The outdoorsy lineage can still be spied in the line's latest offerings, but with a decidedly more "city guy" appeal. But that could be due to the sandals. Can't ride a motorcycle, go spelunking or go hunting in footwear like that. But physically taxing activities aside, I'm a fan of what I see.

Burberry - Oh Christopher Bailey, always keeping us on our toes. The designer does a fabulous job of ensuring that the historic brand stays relevant with the younger generations, not only by introducing a makeup line, but also by employing famous Brits such as starlet Emma Watson and supermodel Rosie Huntington-Whiteley to star in ad campaigns. The curve ball that came at us in this collection? Neon metallics. On sandals, on sunglasses, on trousers...and yes, even on the brand's bespoke trenches. Some looks are blindingly bright, while others seem to mimic the brand's age-old appeal to neutrals...until you catch a neon-encompassed foot. Cheeky man, that Mr. Bailey. I like it.

The goods from Resort 2013

Even though Resort collections seem like the odd, redheaded stepchildren of fashion seasons amidst the glamorous Couture collections, the bread-and-butter fall/winter and spring/summer collections and the exciting pre-fall collections, it's all the better for the truly great pieces in Resort to stand out amidst other less memorable wares.

Though I cherry pick my way through most shows, choosing a few pieces from each designer that I found to be particularly inspiring or that appealed to my sense of style, I rarely am head-over-heels about most of a single collection. Just like I'm that girl that loves iTunes because I can cherry pick certain songs I like from an artist instead of buying an album with songs that I don't care for. But, metaphors aside, back to Resort. There are lines that make a believer out of me each and every season, as I end up liking every (or almost every) piece that is shown. Such is the case with designers like Erin Fetherston, Naeem Khan, Oscar de la Renta, Monique Lhuillier and Temperley London. These designers are, to me, the heavy hitters that I can always rely on to produce beautiful creations that are both lovely to look at and complementary to the wearer.

Key trends of Resort 2013:

• Allover floral patterns 
• Delicate, ankle strap heels
• Neons
• Pleats

Some of my favorite pieces from the Resort 2013 shows:
(photos c/o style.com)

Erin Fetherston: I cannot recall a single Erin Fetherston show where, after I've browsed the offerings she sent down the runway, I decided I wasn't a fan of that particular season. I've literally loved every single year of shows because she sticks to her design aesthetic - bright, fun, feminine pieces - while still managing to draw from different inspirations each season and tweak her line in unique ways for every new launch.

Oscar de la Renta: The king of opulent elegance, himself. Rich jewel tones amidst allover springy flower prints dominated the show and there was the usual, stunning parade of gorgeous gowns cut from luxurious fabrics that caboosed the other pieces. These are the wares for the aspirational clotheshorse.

Temperley London: Designer Alice Temperley is responsible for creating new offerings for not just one, but two labels (Temperley London and Alice by Temperley) every season, so the fact that every single skirt, dress, shirt, sweater, shoe that came down the runway for her Temperley London line would be scored an A+ goes to show how talented (and hardworking) she is. If I wore Temperley London nonstop for a year straight, I still don't think I would tire of it, such is its appeal to me. Like Erin Fetherston, this label never lets me down. I know what recurring themes to expect from the line's offerings each season (ladylike, polished, light to no embellishments) and thus I'm never disappointed.

Naeem Khan: This design house reminds me of a minimalistic Marchesa; though there are ornate and theatrical details in every piece of this collection, these details are so peripheral so that the garment allows the wearer to be the focus as it provides the perfect, lovely backdrop. Neutrals and bright hues shared space in this Resort 2013 launch, allowing for a mix of subdued and jubilant elegance.

Monique Lhuillier: Lhuillier's collection highlights all that is feminine without resorting to the stereotypical pastels, frills and flowing swaths of fabrics that are commonly instituted in other designers' collections when they are trying to play up femininity. Lhuillier incorporatess pinks, yellows, oranges and greens - all neon - in pieces throughout this collection, and cuts each dress, be it a sheath or a gown, in an almost aggressive style that displays subtle curves. In other words, this collection does put an emphasis on femininity, but it is a bold, confident femininity that celebrates women that aren't shrinking violets. Yes, there are flowing gowns, but in eye-popping hues, and there are floral patterns to be found, albeit in abstract forms that could be described as Monet-meets-Kandinsky.

Bottega Veneta:

Burberry:

 (That jacket. What I would give for that jacket.)

Carlos Miele:

Donna Karan:

(I love this because of the watercolor-esque pale blue tint that seems to fade near the center of the outfit.)

Erdem:

 (I love how the models have swapped prints, creating an interesting mix of two rather different bold florals that somehow still work.)

(Just like with Monique Lhuillier, black makes an unusual, but welcome appearance in these Rorschach-esque flower prints. And how about that lovely lace top on the right?)

Rachel Roy:

 (Lavender trouser pants with a mini cummerbund-ish waist. Yes, please.)

(Yellow dresses are my favorite, and combined with those nude and red ankle strap heels, this is perfection.)

Rachel Zoe:

Preen: 

Ports 1961:

(I'm a fan of the dress, but my attention is drawn to those perfect nude heels. Barely visible straps elongate the legs and add an minimalistic polish to the look.)

St. John:

(Proportion perfection with a flared peplum skirt and fitted pencil skirt. The cinched waist adds the finishing touch.)

Suno:

Thakoon:

 (The marriage of a long sleeve harlequin print dress and a neon striped blazer is a perfect dash of chaos while the nude heels keep the look grounded.)

Yigal Azrouel:

 (Perfect pant length to showcase those gorgeous heels.)

 (Lovely cobalt skirt, and again with the showstopper heels.)

(The flattering racerback cut paired with hourglass-shaped seams make for the perfect summery dress.)